Description
Okumidori Uji Gyokuro - 2026 Shincha/Ichibancha (New Harvest Tea/First Harvest Tea), then rested for five months. Naturally grown with no synthetic fertilizers or pesticides.
Origin: Minamiyamashiro Village, Kyoto Prefecture Cultivar: Okumidori ("Late Green", due to a later budding period than standard Yabukita.)
I'll start by saying that this is the most expensive tea that I have ever carried in our line-up, so felt that I needed to explain the "sticker shock" of this tea. It came as somewhat of a panic purchase at the beginning of this season, when it seemed like there would be no Gyokuro, and no teas from Uji, to be found this season due to the "Matcha Boom" effects on the market. A friend was able to secure this tea at auction, and I felt that an expensive Gyokuro from Uji would be better than no Gyokuro at all. The tea farm behind this Gyokuro goes back some 75 years, and has practicing natural farming methods since 2014, so there is a wealth of experience behind this tea. High-grade Gyokuro can also have a resting period of several months in order to further mellow out the flavor profile and to concentrate the umami, so I had to wait from May to September for this tea. In the interim, I was able to find and purchase other fine Gyokuro in different price ranges. However, after tasting this tea, I am very excited to share a limited quantity with Charaku tea friends. Gyokuro of this quality, especially naturally-grown, is not always easy to find in the market. While Gyokuro of this caliber is comparatively expensive; focused brewing with the low temperatures, small servings, and slow infusions that yield Gyokuro's best qualities can lead to double the number of infusions of typical Sencha. This makes Gyokuro a luxurious value. You can even use the spent leaves with a sprinkle of soy sauce or ponzu to make "ohitashi."
The dry tea of this Gyokuro is dark green with thin needles, and the aroma is like marine air, with grassy notes in the background. The infused tea is very rich in umami, with a buttery mouthfeel in the first few infusions, and dashi-like aroma and salinity. After the first two strong umami infusions, more sweetness, reminiscent of honeydew melon, appears. Astringency is very low throughout several infusions, but an increase in temperature can bring about a light astringent finish. Each infusion is incredibly smooth, and there are several to be had. With focused brewing, at least six, or more, infusions should be possible. Pictured are my 1st, 3rd, and 5th infusions, but I would say that five to six flavorful infusions are easily drawn, followed by more (four to five) smooth and light infusions after that. While they pale in comparison to the initial "umami bomb" in the first cup, latter infusions are still nice to drink, similar to a light Sencha.
The Okumidori cultivar was originally developed and registered in Shizuoka Prefecture about 50 years ago. It is known for a high level of umami, a rich green color, and low astringency. While it was used early on in premium Sencha production, it is now used widely in Gyokuro and Matcha production, due to the umami and color characteristics.
Uji-cha (Uji Tea) is a protected regional designation established by the Kyoto Tea Industry Association in 2004. Tea must be processed (finished by tea artisans) using the Uji Method in Kyoto Prefecture; but can be grown in Kyoto, or the adjacent prefectures of Nara, Shiga, or Mie. However, preference is given to teas grown and processed in Kyoto Prefecture. While the city of Uji is a mecca for tea shops and tea cafes (and mass tourism), much of the actual growing of tea area is outside of Uji City. Nearly half of the tea grown in Kyoto Prefecture is grown in Wazuka-cho (Wazuka Town), about 16 miles/25 km away (30 minutes by car). This Okumidori Gyokuro is grown and harvested in the village of Minamiyamashiro, about 25 minutes' drive further southeast from Wazuka.
Minamiyamashiro is well-known as a premier area for growing Gyokuro and Tencha (the base tea for Matcha), not only in Uji, Kyoto, but also in Japan. While there are less than 2,500 residents in the 25 square mile (64 sq km) village, it boasts a stellar reputation as a tea producer. Tea fields line many of the village slopes, including several unique "tate-une" vertical tea rows that go up (instead of across) the slopes. Minamiyamashiro lies in the southeast corner of Kyoto Prefecture in the Souraku District, which also includes Wazuka and Kasagi Towns. It shares borders with Nara, Shiga, and Mie Prefectures. It is also the only official "village" designation in all of Kyoto Prefecture, the rest having been merged with larger towns and cities. Minamiyamashiro, itself, was formed in 1955 by the merger of the two former villages of Takayama and Ookawara.
Uji has been a leading center of tea production since the 13th Century (800+ years), and has long enjoyed a reputation in Japan for fine teas. Uji teas were commissioned and enjoyed by high-ranking generals, aristocrats, the Buddhist clergy, and even the Shogun throughout the Edo Period. The Uji region is especially known for the shade-grown teas (Kabuse-cha) that lead to the production of Gyokuro and Tencha (the base tea for Matcha.) The Uji Method of tea production has become the standard of tea agriculture and tea finishing throughout much of Japan since it was developed by Soen Nagatani, and Ujitawara tea farmer, in the 18th C. Because of Uji's rich history of tea culture and tea production, Kyoto Prefecture is currently working on getting recognition for the Uji tea region as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.